As hair perfumes become more popular, there is a renewed interest in traditional Indian hair rituals, signifying a cultural revival. These rituals, deeply rooted in holistic well-being and beauty practices, often involve natural oils and herbs, reflecting a shift towards sustainable and mindful beauty routines. This resurgence not only embraces ancestral wisdom but also integrates it with contemporary beauty trends, enriching the modern hair care experience.
We explore the scent and sensibility of the practice
Strolling through the beauty section of a department store today reveals dedicated spaces for hair perfumes. However, this concept isn't novel. For centuries, Indians have perfumed their hair through various rituals. These practices include scenting hair over burning incense, massaging fragrant oils onto the scalp, and adorning hair with flower garlands or gajras, emanating scents of jasmine and other blooms.
The celebration of the senses through hair rituals originates from the abundance of aromatic plants in India. According to Divrina Dhingra, author of "The Perfume Project: Journeys Through Indian Fragrance," India boasts around 18,500 varieties of aromatic plants. These plants contain volatile oils in flowers, leaves, bark, seeds, wood, or roots. Dhingra explains that these plants have been used for centuries for medicinal, cosmetic, or dual purposes, as traditional medicine systems blur the lines between categories.
In Ayurveda, fragrance is considered a delightful byproduct of hair nurturing rather than the primary focus. Dr. Reji Raj, Sr. Ayurveda Physician and General Manager at Amal Tamara, emphasizes the significant role of hair care in Ayurvedic texts like Ashtanga Sangraha and Charaka Samhitha.
Ancient Ayurvedic texts prescribe various hair care practices, including Murdhni Thaila (head oiling), which encompasses techniques like Shirodhara (streaming medicated liquid onto the forehead), Shiro Abhyanga (head massage), Shiro Basthi (creating a boundary on the head with dough and filling it with medicated oil), and Shiro Pichu (placing cloth soaked in medicated oil on the head). Dr. Raj explains that the incorporation of botanicals such as camphor, agarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, rose petals, and mint in formulations may result in pleasantly scented medicated oils.
In modern times, there's a practical aspect to aromatic Ayurvedic hair care. As people return to traditional practices, the inclusion of fragrances in hair care products serves to mask the natural scents of base oils like coconut, castor, sesame, and neem oil, making them more appealing to contemporary sensibilities.
Hair perfuming has been deeply ingrained in the royal rituals of India, forming an integral part of the grooming practices of the elite. In her book, "The Perfume Project: Journeys Through Indian Fragrance," Dhingra highlights the elaborate toilette of ladies, particularly those from affluent or royal households. During this era, Indian women adorned their hair with fragrant oils or dried it over burning incense, a practice that finds mention in Kalidas's Meghduta.
Perfumery evolved into a refined art form, reaching its zenith during the Mughal period in India. Dhingra notes that perfumes experienced unprecedented popularity during this era, particularly among the emperors and courtiers. These discerning aesthetes elevated the practice of perfuming to a sophisticated art, embodying the opulence and refinement of Mughal culture.
Source: Vouge