Rail Journey Spotlight: Exploring the Scenic Route from Genoa to Ventimiglia, Italy

Delve into the breathtaking journey from Genoa to Ventimiglia, Italy, as we highlight the captivating sights and experiences along this picturesque rail route. Explore the scenic beauty and cultural richness of Italy's landscapes while immersing yourself in the charm of this mesmerizing journey.

Traveling along the Ligurian coast to the French border, our expert in leisurely journeys relishes the combination of tunnels and breathtaking coastal vistas.

Nature has its own way of disrupting travel plans. In August 2023, a landslide in the French Alps obstructed the main railway just beyond the Mont Cenis tunnel, a crucial route for trains traveling from Italy to Lyon and Paris. This affected the high-speed French TGVs and the sleek Italian Frecciarossa trains that compete on the lucrative Milan-to-Paris link. Many passengers bound for Paris and London rerouted through Switzerland, while others devised alternative routes via the Riviera, utilizing the historic railway west from Genoa, which, since 1872, has been one of the earliest routes crossing the Italy-France border. As the Mont Cenis route remains closed, I, needing to travel from Trieste to France, opt for a journey bathed in Ligurian sunshine, taking the train via Genoa and following the coast westward into France.

This coastline is familiar terrain for my partner and me. When viewed from the autostrade or the railway, the landscape appears relatively gentle. However, upon closer inspection, we realize the terrain poses significant challenges. Venturing off the footpath into the macchia, we encounter a maze of thorny shrubs and steep ravines. The landscape is adorned with rock roses, tree heathers, myrtle, and broom, all adorned with vibrant yellow flowers and infused with the briny scent of the sea. Moving away from the coast, the scents of Liguria envelop us: lavender, sage, and wild garlic, complemented by the culinary delights of pesto, focaccia, and the characteristic green window shutters that contribute to the irresistible allure of the Riviera di Ponente, the coastal region west of Genoa.

West from Genoa

The route flows around headlands at points, following the shape of the coast. Photograph: Prisma by Dukas Presseagentur GmbH/Alamy

The romantic essence of Liguria is noticeably absent on a bustling Monday morning at Genoa Piazza Principe. The station's intricate neoclassical facade, adorned with the emblem of Saint George, serves as a reminder of Genoa's historical homage to the dragon slayer long before England's association. Inside, the station's impressive entrance hall blends modern Italian elegance with nostalgic touches of the past. Navigating through the morning rush of commuters, I find my train to Ventimiglia, anticipating the approximately 90-mile (145km) journey ahead.

As we depart, we glide past decaying palaces and venture through the outskirts of Genoa. Crossing the Polcevera River, we observe quaysides and a picturesque array of cranes. To the left, a glimpse through a canyon of containers reveals a distant cruise ship. Despite our proximity to Genoa, detailed instructions on lodging complaints during the journey are promptly relayed. However, I find no reason to complain; the scenic view of the ArcelorMittal steelworks to the left captivates, and a brief pause at a signal allows contemplation of the potential route of a Liberian-registered crude oil tanker anchored nearby.

This portrayal of Liguria diverges starkly from the picturesque scenes depicted in tourist brochures, yet it exudes an undeniable allure of its own. When the railway was constructed, intense debates ensued regarding its primary objective: fostering tourism or fostering industrial growth in coastal communities. Ultimately, industrial interests prevailed, but the railway also facilitated an influx of visitors to the region. Opting to run the railway along the coast catered to those prioritizing port and harbor development, yet it disappointed tourism advocates aspiring to emulate the grandeur of the French Riviera with seaside promenades, palm-lined avenues, and luxurious hotels.

Tourism versus industry

The narrative of this two-hour journey along the Ligurian coast revolves around conflicting interests. Initially, the route from Genoa to Savona embodies an industrial ambiance, but as the journey progresses, it unveils stunning vistas of rocky headlands, untamed shores, distant hillside villages, and distinguished tourist destinations.

Tracing its path from Savona to the French border, the railway largely adheres to the ancient Roman Via Julia Augusta. However, modernization efforts in recent decades have extensively rerouted the line, often diverting it through lengthy tunnels, some extending well inland. The heart of the charming Sanremo resort, adorned with belle époque architecture, was historically separated from the sea by the railway. Subsequently, trains were rerouted through an extensive inland tunnel, with a new underground station serving Sanremo.

While the extensive reconstruction of the railway may seem counterintuitive to travelers seeking uninterrupted views of the Ligurian landscape, it actually introduces a new level of excitement to the journey. The final 40 miles from Alassio to Ventimiglia are characterized by numerous tunnels, including six spanning two miles or more. However, scattered along the entire route are countless short tunnels, each offering fleeting glimpses of the sea and mountains as our train emerges into brilliant sunlight. Despite my attempts to track our progress, we quickly plunge into darkness once more as the train enters another tunnel. This journey is marked by moments of mesmerizing wonder, as fractured yet captivating snapshots of the Ligurian coast and its surroundings unfold like a stroboscopic display.

After navigating through more tunnels, we find ourselves back in daylight, leisurely passing by beachfront bars, swimming pools, and gardens adorned with swaying palm trees.

At Diano, we make a brief stop at a station nestled within a short open-air stretch flanked by two tunnels. Later, our journey halts at Imperia, where the station platforms span a river that once served as the boundary between the rival communities of Oneglia and Porto Maurizio. These communities, bitter rivals in the past, were forcibly merged by Mussolini a century ago to create Imperia.

Continuing our route, we emerge from further tunnels into daylight once more, gliding past beachfront establishments and lush gardens lined with palm trees. Despite sections where the railway veers slightly away from the coast, the journey to Ventimiglia remains just as breathtaking as the iconic seaside line through Dawlish in Devon.

The decision to reroute the railway inland and into tunnels has primarily benefited walkers and cyclists. A splendid coastal cycleway, the Pista ciclabile del Ponente Ligure, now stretches along a lengthy section of the route. Sanremo's revamped seaside promenade, freed from the constraints of the railway, embodies the vision of the resort's early developers. While my journey to Ventimiglia lasted just two hours, the lasting visual impressions will endure for years to come. It truly was a remarkable journey.

Travel facts

Trains departing from Genova Piazza Principe to Ventimiglia run hourly on weekdays and less frequently on weekends, with travel times ranging from 1 hour 55 minutes to 2 hours 45 minutes. Regional train fares are fixed at €17.10 (£14.56), whereas Intercity train fares vary based on demand. Tickets can be purchased in sterling on Rail Europe, which no longer applies fees for pound-denominated transactions. From Ventimiglia, regular onward trains connect to Menton (20 mins), Nice (55 mins), and beyond.

Nicky Gardner resides in Berlin and is a co-author of Europe by Rail: the Definitive Guide (Hidden Europe, £18.99). To support the Guardian and Observer, you can order the 17th edition from guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.

Source: theguardian‍