Marlene Dietrich is the muse for feminist retelling of Dior’s story

Hollywood’s pioneer of androgyny inspires label’s latest catwalk show at New York’s Brooklyn Museum

Christian Dior's influence on fashion history is unparalleled, particularly in his elevation of the hourglass figure as the epitome of feminine perfection. The iconic tiny waists and exaggerated curves showcased in his groundbreaking 1947 New Look collection not only caused a sensation in the world of fashion but also left an indelible mark on culture at large. Dior effectively established a visual archetype for femininity that reigned uncontested throughout the latter half of the 20th century.

In a surprising turn, Marlene Dietrich—renowned as a trailblazer of androgyny, captivating Hollywood audiences with her suave demeanor in suits, ties, and top hats—emerged as an unexpected muse for Dior's latest catwalk presentation. The event, held at the Brooklyn Museum in New York on Monday evening, paid homage to Dietrich's boundary-pushing style and served as a testament to the enduring impact of her iconoclasm on the world of fashion.

Adorned with hair styled into Dietrich-esque waves, models graced the catwalk clad in attire reminiscent of the icon's signature style. From starched white shirts paired with slouchy pleat-front trousers to luxurious velvet evening pyjamas and cowl-necked gowns crafted from lustrous inky silk, each ensemble exuded a timeless elegance.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative force behind Dior, reflected on Dietrich's enduring influence backstage, emphasizing her innate understanding of the transformative power of fashion in shaping personal identity. "She was hyper glamorous," Chiuri remarked, underscoring Dietrich's status as one of the earliest celebrities to recognize the potency of a distinctive look in defining one's persona.

Christian Dior and Marlene Dietrich shared a close bond, their friendship extending beyond the realms of fashion into personal connection. The actor frequently spent weekends at the designer's countryside retreat near Milly-la-Forêt during her visits to Paris for his shows. Dietrich's unwavering loyalty to Dior was further evidenced by her insistence on his designs gracing her on-screen appearances. In a legendary anecdote, she famously declared "No Dior, no Dietrich" when approached by Alfred Hitchcock to star in the film "Stage Fright"—an ultimatum to which the acclaimed director acquiesced.

Under the leadership of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first female creative director of Dior, the esteemed fashion house has undergone a renaissance, challenging conventional notions of femininity. Chiuri's tenure has been marked by a commitment to reshaping the narrative surrounding Dior, infusing it with a feminist perspective. This latest showcase, centered on the unexpected symbiosis between Dior and Dietrich, represents the continuation of Chiuri's mission to offer a contemporary reinterpretation of the Dior legacy through a feminist lens.

The ambiance of the event was complemented by an eclectic soundtrack featuring avant-garde artist Yoko Ono intertwined with the pioneering sounds of German punk icon Nina Hagen. Additionally, attendees were treated to a live performance by Kim Gordon, adding a dynamic layer to the atmosphere. Adding to the immersive experience was an installation located in the museum's central atrium, featuring pairs of women's hands crafted in luminous neon, radiating brilliance akin to the Manhattan skyline visible across the Hudson River.

Renowned artist Claire Fontaine provided insight into the significance of the installation, describing it as an exploration of "the way in which anatomy has been used to discriminate against women." Through this thought-provoking piece, attendees were encouraged to contemplate the societal constructs and biases surrounding gender and the human form, fostering dialogue and reflection on these complex issues.

While the Dior show in New York featured elements of feminist consciousness-raising, its primary objective was not solely focused on this aspect. Under Maria Grazia Chiuri's leadership, Dior has achieved significant financial success, with profits reportedly tripling during her tenure. The grand event, attended by an audience of 800, including prominent actors Anya Taylor-Joy and Rosamund Pike, was primarily conceived as a platform to showcase and promote the brand's latest clothing and handbag collections.

Despite its commercial objectives, the event undoubtedly served as an opportunity to celebrate and explore themes of femininity, empowerment, and artistic expression—a hallmark of Chiuri's vision for Dior. By intertwining fashion with social commentary, the show offered a multifaceted experience that resonated with both the fashion industry and broader cultural discourse.

New York has held a special place in Dior's history since Carmel Snow, then the influential fashion editor of the city, coined the phrase that would become synonymous with the house. Following Christian Dior's groundbreaking 1947 show, Snow famously remarked, "It's quite a revolution, dear Christian. Your dresses have such a new look." This declaration encapsulated the transformative impact of Dior's designs on the fashion world.

During the recent catwalk presentation in New York, elements of French and American culture converged seamlessly. A saddle bag, with a starting price of £3,000, featured a fusion of French and American flags—a symbolic nod to the transatlantic connection between the two fashion capitals. Furthermore, evening gowns adorned with motifs of the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower celebrated the cultural exchange between France and the United States.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, reflecting on the collection, described it as her interpretation of New York style—a city renowned for its dynamic and pragmatic approach to fashion. Emphasizing functionality and versatility, Chiuri drew inspiration from the urban landscape and the practical needs of New Yorkers. The collection embodied a fusion of elegance and practicality, reflecting the essence of a city where walking is a way of life and fashion is imbued with a sense of purpose.

The selection of the Brooklyn Museum as the venue for the Dior event was a deliberate choice, reflecting the institution's legacy of advocating for female artists. Notably, the museum houses the first gallery dedicated to feminist art within a major museum—an emblematic commitment to promoting gender equality and inclusivity in the art world.

Against the backdrop of sobering statistics revealing the stark underrepresentation of female artists in major US museums, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative force behind Dior, expressed a desire to leverage the partnership with the museum to raise awareness of this issue. Citing Judy Chicago's seminal installation "The Dinner Party" as a source of inspiration and influence, Chiuri underscored the importance of acknowledging and addressing the systemic challenges faced by women in the art industry. Through collaboration and advocacy, Chiuri aims to amplify the voices of female artists and challenge existing paradigms, fostering a more equitable and inclusive cultural landscape.

Source: theguardian