The 2024 Met Gala exhibit promises to be a multi-sensory experience, captivating not only the eyes but also the ears and nose.

The "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion" show will showcase 250 items that are being revived from years of dormancy in the Costume Institute's archive.

Fashion, often associated primarily with visual aesthetics, is being redefined by Andrew Bolton, the creative force behind the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. Bolton's latest exhibition, set to debut alongside the illustrious Met Gala next month, aims to engage multiple senses, breaking away from the traditional notion of fashion as purely visual art. Titled "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion," the exhibition will feature 250 carefully curated items unearthed from the depths of the institute's archive, some of which are too fragile to be displayed conventionally on mannequins. Instead, these delicate pieces will rest in glass coffins, reminiscent of the slumbering princess herself. Opening to the public on May 10, the exhibit promises to be a transformative sensory experience, inviting visitors to engage not only with their eyes but also with their noses, ears, and even fingertips—a departure from the typical museum experience.

At the upcoming Met Gala on May 6, hosted by Zendaya, Jennifer Lopez, Bad Bunny, and Chris Hemsworth, celebrity attendees will have the exclusive opportunity to preview the "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion" exhibit. With the gala's dress code themed as "The Garden of Time," guests are expected to interpret the theme creatively, likely incorporating garden-inspired elements into their attire. However, one might wonder if any daring attendee will take the concept to the extreme by donning a living garden as part of their ensemble.

As preparations for the exhibit were underway last week, Andrew Bolton revealed an intriguing garment that pushes the boundaries of traditional fashion: a coat designed by Jonathan Anderson of LOEWE, a sponsor of the show, that has been planted with oat, rye, and wheatgrass. Currently nurtured in a dedicated tent at the museum with its own irrigation system, the coat is in the process of "growing" and will be showcased in its lush green state for the initial week of the exhibition. Subsequently, it will be replaced with a version that has dried out, symbolizing the natural cycle of growth and decay. Indeed, as the museum describes it, the coat will "grow and die over the course of the exhibition," adding a dynamic and thought-provoking element to the showcase.

In "Sleeping Beauties," the exhibition will be structured around themes of earth, air, water, and the various senses, providing visitors with a multi-sensory experience. Andrew Bolton explains that one of the four areas dedicated to the sense of smell will be the garden gallery, where the innovative coat will be showcased.

Within these galleries, visitors will have the opportunity to encounter scents associated with different garments. However, the approach goes beyond simply matching a floral gown with a floral scent. Bolton elucidates, stating that they aim to present the olfactory history of each garment, encompassing the unique scent of the wearer, their natural body odors, as well as external factors such as their habits, diet, and environment. To achieve this, the museum collaborated with Norwegian "smell artist" Sissel Tolaas, who conducted 57 "molecular readings" of garments. These readings were then translated into scents that will permeate the galleries, enriching the sensory experience and fostering a deeper connection between visitors and the exhibited items.

Indeed, garments have the potential to create sound, especially those adorned with intricate embroideries, such as a renowned gown by the late Alexander McQueen embellished with dried and bleached razor clams.

Given the fragility of the original dress, curators replicated it, incorporating the same razor clams collected by McQueen. They then isolated and recorded the sound produced by these clams in motion within an echo-free chamber at Binghamton University. Andrew Bolton explains that this approach allows them to capture the subtle nuances of movement associated with the garment.

Similarly, another garment made of silk taffeta produces a distinct sound known as "scroop," derived from the words "scrape" and "whoop." This sound, often likened to that of a garage band, is specific to silk and can vary in intensity depending on the finishing of the fabric. In one gallery, visitors will have the opportunity to hear the pronounced scroop of taffeta.

Addressing the sense of touch poses challenges in a museum setting where physical interaction with artifacts is restricted. However, the exhibit seeks to overcome this limitation by employing innovative techniques. For instance, a 17th-century Jacobean bodice, too delicate to handle, has been recreated through 3D scanning and rendered on wallpaper. Visitors will be able to explore the intricate embroidery by running their hands over the textured wallpaper. A similar approach will allow visitors to experience the tactile qualities of a Dior dress.

Moreover, to enrich the visual experience, accompanying animations will spotlight details of the garments that may not be perceptible to the naked eye, akin to examining them through a microscope.

Andrew Bolton considers "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion" one of the most ambitious endeavors undertaken by the Costume Institute. In curating the exhibition, Bolton meticulously sifted through the museum's extensive archive of 33,000 garments and accessories to select the definitive 250 pieces.

With the incorporation of various new technologies, Bolton envisions these innovations becoming standard practice. He anticipates the institute will develop a comprehensive database documenting the sounds and scents of garments before they are added to the collection. This initiative aims to capture these sensory elements in their vibrant, living state, preserving them in their "last gasp" of vitality before they transition into museum artifacts. Perhaps one day, these garments will rest in glass coffins, akin to the slumbering beauty of folklore.

"Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion" is scheduled to run from May 10th to September 2nd, 2024, offering visitors a captivating journey through fashion history infused with sensory experiences.

Source: Mint